Measurements and tailoring

An ill-fitting suit can put the "sack" into sad sack, so make sure you take accurate measurements and take your suit to a tailor for the finishing touches.

The jacket

Suit sizes have a number with a letter or word, such as 40L or 40 Long. The number is your chest measurement, or your over-arm measurement minus 7 inches. If these two numbers are about the same, use your chest measurement as your suit size. However, if the measurement over your arms is larger than your chest, use your over-arm measurement (minus 7) as your size.

The suit jacket length is described as short, regular or long, but this may be designated with just the first letter: S, R or L. The letter or word given in the size refers to your overall height.

• Short: 5'5" to 5'7"
• Regular: 5'8" to 5'10"
• Long: 5'11" to 6'2"

These measurements are flexible, though, so be aware of your body proportions. Choose the suit jacket length that covers your rear end without going any farther. For example, if you're 5'10" but you have a long torso, then you may want to shop for a long.

Suits

Sizes 36-42: Subtract 6 to get the pant size. Sizes 44-46: Subtract 5 to get the pant size. Sizes 48+: Subtract 4 to get the pant size.

The pants

Suits have what is called a "drop," which is the difference between the number given in the size and your pant size. American suits typically have a 6-inch drop. For example, an American suit in size 38R would have pants that are size 32. European suits typically have a 7-inch drop. So, you will need to subtract 7 from the over arm measurement to see what the pants size is. Most pants can be let out one inch and taken in up to two inches, so your body doesn't need to have the exact measurements as the suit, but you'll want to choose one that is as close as possible.

Cuffs and breaks

Pants, especially suit pants, are usually sold in one length, so you can have a tailor hem them to the right length. When they do this, tailors put in a "break." The break refers to how the bottom edge of your pants hits the top of your shoes.

• Full break: pants are hemmed to reach down to the top of the shoes' heels, with the front of the hem "breaking" naturally over the shoes. This look is considered very fashionable.
• Half break: pants are hemmed to reach about halfway down the back of the shoes. This is a very common choice.
• No break: hems end right before shoes, and a bit of sock is showing. This tends to look a bit casual.

When you have your pants hemmed, you can decide if you want a cuff or not. In general, pleated-front pants can be worn with or without cuffs, while flat-front pants should not have cuffs. Cuffed pants are more flattering on taller men.